This piece is an exaggerated memory from a doomed surf mission when I was younger. No idea that I left my wetsuit behind, I went off to surf Malibu with only a rash guard and some friends who were prepared. No waves were caught but to this day it's one of my favorite memories of surfing with some good friends.
Nice one !
ReplyDeleteThanks dude:) You ever make it out to Hossegor? That would be a dream trip for me...
ReplyDeleteYep twice ! But never surfed there :)
ReplyDeleteBeautiful work
ReplyDeleteAh man...just had a failed full moon run at Trestles a couple months back. Eight foot sets, got down to lowers with my buds, pulled the board out of the bag, no fins, had swapped em to my other board!! Still paddled, caught one wave in doin' 360's on my stomach...HA!!! Looked alot like this except the power plant reflected off the waves. Great piece and good story man!!
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